It's beginning to look a lot like jul!

There's a dusting of snow on the ground, a smell of cinnamon in the air and glowing stars in the windows, Christmas is most certainly on the way here in Sweden. I can't get enough of the saffron treats, pepparkakor (spiced biscuits) and hot glögg (Swedish mulled wine) that are ever present at this time of year at Christmas markets, parties, cafes and just piled up around the department.







Since my last post I've had one more visitor (Diese, the chef from the Grocer Cafe); discovered that I actually will be spending next February studying on Svalbard; been to the ballet, the royal palace Christmas markets and a Luciadagen service; attended numerous Christmas parties and have made use of my new ice skates on the free Kungsträdgården rink.

Diese at the classic view point

At the end of November Diese came over for a few days before she returned to Brasil for 3 months. While she was here it was the Bolin Centre Days at University, an event where climate scientists from Stockholm University present their research. This meant I needed to be in work during the days but was able to meet Diese for some fika (complete with saffron and cardamom buns of course!) and for dinner at mine in the evenings. Diese kindly brought me over a large supply of mince pies (the Swedes have no idea what these are!!) and one evening made me some Brazilian cheese bread balls to accompany our Swedish feast.




On Diese's final night here the Bolin days culminated with a Swedish/Scottish dinner, involving an extensive Swedish buffet followed by a traditional Ceilidh, complete with bagpipes. Diese was able to join us to 'Strip the Willow' and dance the 'Dashing White Sergeant'.

PhD dinner

The following week continued with work presentations as we had the PhD day in which all of us Physical Geography PhD's presented our work to the rest of the department, then, after learning how to write successful funding applications, we made our way into town for dinner and drinks.
The following day December began, bringing with it cause for many celebrations, markets and festive tea breaks.

At the Nutcracker

During the first couple of weeks of advent, Martim, Felicity and I had a delicious home cooked curry at Abhay's before he flew back to India; I attended Sandra and Josephin's office Christmas party, complete with glögg and a cookie contest; Felicity, Sonia, Yan Ma and I have taken a trip to Drottningholm Royal Palace for the Christmas markets and to the Royal Opera House for the Nutcracker; and I've had the full Swedish experience with 2 Lucia concerts.

Drottningholm with Felicity, Yan Ma and Sonia

The Christmas market had plenty of stalls selling home made clothing, decorations and much food for sampling. Despite the slight drizzle it was lovely to have a look around, warm up with some glögg and take a stroll around the expansive grounds.
Our trip to the ballet was quite magical, especially due to the flurries of snow which drifted across on the walk over. It was a fantastic performance of the Nutcracker in such a beautiful building, which we took full advantage of afterwards for a comprehensive photo shoot. It was a Swedish version of the Nutcracker as instead of the traditional Nutcracker figure, the lead was 'Julbocken', the goat which traditionally gave out gifts here on December 24th. These days they have a slightly less scary figure called 'Tomten', he's more similar to our Father Christmas, with his red hat and long white beard, but is actually a gnome rather than St Nicolas.

Uni Lucia Service
(No photos allowed in the church one)

Another figure who is important in the Swedish Christmas calendar is Lucia, the bearer of light. On 13th December we celebrated Luciadagen at uni with a performance of various Swedish songs by the meteorology department, accompanied by a harp and followed by Lussebullar (very dry saffron bread rolls). That evening Eva, Felicity, Sonia, Yan Ma and I attended a much more impressive service at Storkyrkan (the main church in Stockholm's old town). Beforehand I had everyone over for dinner and glögg and we just managed to make it to the service in time after a couple of cancelled trains. The church was beautiful inside and the service breathtaking as the youth choir performed a whole range of carols and Christmas songs by candle light and formed a 'Luciatåg', lead by 'Lucia' with a crown of candles.

Felicity, Sonia and I at the Royal Opera House

This weekend was Eva's Christmas party for a group of us from the department. Felicity and I got together on Friday evening to make some christmas pudding truffles for a taste of the British festivities. These were added to an incredible Portugese buffet laid on by Eva and her husband, Nelson. The 12 of us ate, drank and played various games, including one which involves steeling gifts off each other by rolling sixes until the time runs out. I had my one last gift stolen from me in the last 2 seconds but Nelson kindly gave me one from his stack.

Felicity and I channeling our inner Sugar Plum Fairies

Today the snow has finally properly arrived and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it lasts through until
tomorrow when we have our department julbord (a traditional Swedish Christmas buffet) at the old archives in town.
The following day I have my Swedish exam after work so I need to brush up on my vocab and grammar. Then it's just a few more days until I fly home for a Christmas at Grandma's with all the family, can't wait!!

God jul!